Estimation of wave directional spreading in shallow water

Abstract

Wave directional spreading in shallow water is described in this paper. Waves were measured for a period of two months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind directionwas found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfacorily represented by Scott spectra