Directional spectrum of ocean waves

Abstract

This paper describes a methodology for obtaining the directional spectrum of ocean waves from time series measurement of wave elevation at several gauges arranged in linear or polygonal arrays. Results of simulated studies using sinusoidal wave fields are described. For these sinusoidal wave fields, analysis of both linear and polygonal arrays consistently yielded accurate directions, in contrast with the limited success of Pawka (1974) in case of linear arrays and Esteva (1976, 1977) in case of polygonal arrays. An attempt is made to determine array location and configuration for the coast of Calangute, Goa, India