Directional wave measurements and modelling
Abstract
Some of the results obtained from analysis of the monsoon directional wave data measured over 4 years in shallow waters off the west coast of India are presented. The directional spectrum computed from the time series data seems to indicate the predominant direction of waves as from SW to W as also the presence of sea and swell states. Measured one-dimensional spectra seem to show a possible narrowing tendency with increase in @uUc/Cp@@. Two-dimensional spectra modelled as a product of measured one-dimensional spectra and sech@u2@@ (beta theta) spreading function seem to provide a better estimate of the directional energy distribution for the monsoon conditions. While non-linear wave-wave interaction seems to be the major governing factor in the directional spread of energy at and around the peak, direct wind input seems to influence the higher frequency part of the spectrum beyond the peak frequency
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